Repair guide
Dryer not heating
Updated 30 Sep 2026 · AR Logic LLC · 4 sources
Not an emergency — but check the vent
If the drum turns but the clothes stay cold, the cause is usually power or airflow before it is a part: an electric dryer needs two breakers and heats only if both are on, a gas dryer needs its gas valve open, and a clogged vent trips the safety that cuts the heat. After those, the usual failed parts are the thermal fuse and the heating element (electric) or the igniter and gas-valve coils (gas).
Is a dryer that won’t heat an emergency?
Not by itself. But lint is what burns in dryer fires, and a dryer that stopped heating often did so because its vent is clogged. If you smell burning or the dryer or vent is hot to the touch, stop using it and unplug it or switch off its breaker. If it runs on gas and you smell gas, leave and call the gas company or 911 from outside.
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Managers: set it up for your buildings →What to check, in order
Check both breakers (electric)
An electric dryer runs on a 240-volt circuit with two breakers, one for the motor and one for the heat. If one has tripped, the drum turns and nothing warms up. Switch both fully off and back on [1].
Check the gas valve (gas)
On a gas dryer the shutoff on the supply pipe must be open — the handle parallel to the pipe. A closed valve gives a turning drum and cold clothes [1].
Clean the lint screen and the vent
A restricted vent makes the dryer overheat and a limit switch cuts the heat. Clean the screen, then pull the dryer out and check the duct to the outside wall: it should be short, rigid or semi-rigid metal, not crushed, and the outside flap should open when the dryer runs [1][2]. Failure to clean is the leading contributing factor in residential dryer fires [3].
Try a timed dry on high heat
Sensor and eco cycles can run cool on small or nearly dry loads. A timed high-heat cycle tells you whether heat is there at all [2].
Thermal fuse
A one-time fuse on the exhaust duct blows when the dryer overheats — usually because of the vent. Replacing it without fixing the vent means it blows again [2].
Heating element (electric) or igniter and valve coils (gas)
An open element, or on gas models a cracked igniter, weak valve coils or a failed flame sensor, stops heat with everything else working. These need the dryer opened and a meter; most people call a technician here [2].
By brand
Safety first
- Unplug the dryer or switch off both breakers before opening a panel.
- Gas dryer: shut the gas valve before moving the dryer, and never kink the flexible gas line when pushing it back.
- Do not run the dryer with the vent disconnected indoors — a gas dryer vents carbon monoxide.
When to call a pro
Call an appliance technician if the breakers, gas valve and vent are all fine and the dryer still makes no heat, or at once if you smell burning or gas. Call a vent cleaner if the duct is long or runs through a roof.
What to photograph
For the Triage Profile, photograph the back of the dryer with the vent duct and where it meets the wall, plus the model label inside the door. One clear photo in good light is enough; the Triage Profile says what it is, how urgent it is (emergency, today, this week or whenever), and which trade to call.
Questions people ask
My dryer heats but takes two or three cycles. Why?
That is almost always airflow: a clogged vent or a crushed duct. Whirlpool recommends cleaning the vent every one to two years [1].
Can I bypass the thermal fuse?
No. The thermal fuse is a safety device that stops an overheating dryer; never bypass it. If it has blown, the vent is the likely reason — have the vent cleared and the fuse replaced.
Sources
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