How to Fix a Dripping Kitchen Faucet

That constant drip-drip-drip from your kitchen faucet isn't just annoying — it wastes thousands of gallons per year and adds to your water bill. The good news is this is one of the easiest home repairs you can tackle yourself, usually in under an hour with basic tools.

In this guide you'll learn exactly what's causing the drip, what tools you need, and how to fix it step-by-step without calling a plumber.

Symptoms & Causes

A dripping kitchen faucet is almost always caused by a worn internal component — usually the cartridge, O-ring, or seat washer. Here are the symptoms that tell you it's time to act:

• Steady drip from the spout when the faucet is fully off — the most common sign of a worn cartridge or seat washer
• Water pooling under the sink or a wet cabinet floor — indicates a failed O-ring around the faucet body
• Hissing or sputtering sound during use — suggests mineral buildup or a partially obstructed cartridge
• Stiff or loose handle — worn packing nut or loose handle screw allowing the cartridge to shift
• Mineral deposits or rust stains around the faucet base — a sign of slow, long-term leaking that can damage your cabinet

The root cause is almost always age and wear. Cartridges and washers are designed to last 8–12 years under normal use. Hard water accelerates the wear significantly.

Tools & Parts Needed (with Cost Range)

You can complete this repair with tools most homeowners already own. Total parts cost is typically $10–$50 depending on your faucet brand.

• Adjustable wrench — for removing the packing nut ($8–$20 if you need to buy one)
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers — to remove the handle screw and pry off the decorative cap (most homes have these)
• Needle-nose pliers — helpful for gripping and pulling the cartridge ($6–$15)
• Bucket or towels — to catch residual water when you open the faucet
• Faucet repair kit or replacement cartridge — match your faucet brand (Moen, Delta, Kohler, Pfister). Cost: $10–$40. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it exactly.
• Plumber's grease (silicone-based) — lubricates the new cartridge to prevent sticking. Cost: $4–$8.
• Teflon tape — optional, useful if any threaded connections feel loose. Cost: $2–$4.

Pro tip: Take a photo of your faucet model number (stamped on the body under the sink) before buying parts. Cartridges are not universal.

Safety Warnings

• Always shut off the water supply valves first. They're the oval knobs under the sink. Turn clockwise until they stop. Skipping this step will cause water to spray when you open the faucet body.
• Release pressure before opening anything. After shutting the valves, turn the faucet on to drain the remaining water in the line. This prevents a pressurized burst when you remove the cartridge.
• Don't use excessive force. Faucet components are made of brass and plastic. Over-tightening the packing nut can crack the faucet body, turning a $15 repair into a $200+ replacement.
• Know where your main shutoff is. If the supply valves under the sink are corroded and won't close, you'll need to shut off the main water supply to the house before proceeding.
• Check for lead pipes. In homes built before 1986, faucet components may contain lead. Wear gloves and wash hands thoroughly after handling old parts.

Step-by-Step Repair

1. Shut off both supply valves under the sink (clockwise to close). Place a bucket underneath.
2. Open the faucet to release water pressure and drain the line.
3. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the handle screw beneath it.
4. Pull the handle straight up and off. If it's stuck, wiggle gently — do not force it.
5. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen and remove the packing nut (large hex nut below the handle mount). Turn counterclockwise.
6. Pull out the old cartridge or stem. Note the orientation before removing — photograph it if needed.
7. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match the replacement exactly.
8. Apply a thin coat of plumber's grease to the new cartridge, then insert it in the same orientation as the old one.
9. Reinstall the packing nut, handle, and cap in reverse order. Snug — not torqued.
10. Turn the supply valves back on (counterclockwise). Run the faucet and check for drips. Done.

When to Call a Pro

This repair is DIY-friendly, but there are situations where a licensed plumber is the right call:

• The supply valves won't close — corroded shutoffs that won't seal require professional replacement to avoid flooding.
• You see corrosion inside the faucet body — if the cartridge seat is pitted or corroded, a simple cartridge swap won't stop the drip. The faucet likely needs full replacement.
• Leak is behind the wall — if water is coming from inside the wall rather than the faucet body, that's a supply line issue requiring a plumber.
• Multiple faucets are dripping simultaneously — this usually points to a water pressure issue or a failing pressure regulator, not individual faucet wear.
• You're not confident with tools — a plumber charges $75–$150 for this repair. That's worth it if the alternative is accidentally cracking a pipe.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to fix a dripping kitchen faucet yourself?
Parts typically run $10–$50 depending on your faucet brand. A plumber charges $75–$150 for the same job. Most homeowners save $60–$100 doing it themselves.

How long does this repair take?
30–60 minutes for a first-timer. If you've done it before, 15–20 minutes.

Will fixing the drip lower my water bill?
Yes. A faucet dripping once per second wastes about 3,000 gallons per year — roughly $15–$30 depending on your local water rate. The repair pays for itself quickly.

What if the drip comes back after I replace the cartridge?
The most common cause is incorrect cartridge orientation on reassembly. The second most common cause is a corroded seat — the metal surface the cartridge presses against. In that case, the faucet needs to be replaced entirely.

Can I fix a ball-type or ceramic disc faucet the same way?
The general process is similar — shut off water, disassemble handle, replace the worn part — but the internal components differ. Ball faucets use springs, seats, and a rotating ball. Ceramic disc faucets use a cylinder with ceramic discs. Your repair kit should match your faucet type.

My faucet handle is stiff, not dripping. Is this the same problem?
Not necessarily. A stiff handle usually means mineral buildup on the cartridge or a dry O-ring, not a worn cartridge. Try cleaning with white vinegar first. If stiffness persists, replace the cartridge.